Swedish Christmas

Sweden (Svenska) is a fascinating country. On Dec 21st 2009 Andreas and I arrived in Borås via Berlin Air. Since our flight left from Vienna at 6:30 AM we decided to spend the night at the airport. In order to do so, we took a 9 PM train from Wiener Neustadt to Vienna and then an airport shuttle bus from Vienna to the airport. Andreas and I then proceeded to sleep on a couple of nice benches close to the check-in station. Well....we only slept for about two hours because we were watching Whose Line Is It Anyway and How I Met Your Mother. We slept from about 2 to 4 AM before awakening to prepare for the flight. On the plane, I awoke just in time to see the ocean to the west of Sweden (Someone upstairs must have been pointing out the majestic beauty of the place) just before it was engulfed with clouds. I made Andreas practice a few basic Swedish phrases with me so that I would not be forced into a state of mute misunderstanding and would be able to communicate on at least a basic level with his parents. Of course, when I asked Andreas how to say: the food tastes really good, I should have known that he would teach me the direct translation of: that food tastes fucking good. Really the first impression that I wanted to make after meeting his parents for the first time, if you know what I mean? I wondered why his mom hesitated slightly after I had said this...but now I know for certain! However, it seems like cursing is so much more acceptable in Scandinavia than in other countries. Harsh language (including words like shit, fuck, and damn) is part of the typical day-to-day conversational bantering. I noticed (just from driving from the airport to Andreas’ home) the high level of liberalness by noticing simple things such as underwear and revealing bustiers hanging in the windows of nearly every clothing shop. As Andreas mentioned to me earlier in the semester, lingerie is considered to be acceptable party clothing. Anways...so Andreas’ Papa picked us up from the airport and drove us to the family home, a cozy red-brick home situated on the edge of a never-ending portion of sprawling forest at the top of a residential hill. I met the family, including the family dog Morris. We spent the afternoon relaxing, hanging out, and watching TV. Andreas fell asleep while I read, but later that night I was the one who fell asleep to Gladiator. I guess I was just too tuckered out after a long day of traveling to really enjoy a serious, intellectual movie.

The next day, Andreas and I slept in until about 11 or 12 before catching a train from Central Station in Borås to Gothenburg. Andreas took me to Liseberg, a small Christmas-inspired village with Christmas booths, rides, and candy wheels. Since my wallet was so heavy with euro coins, I decided to lighten my load and give my cousin Emily an indirect Christmas present at the same time. There was a WWF fountain for endangered animals, and this is where those coins went. We passed stands selling Swedish specialties as well as marzipan pigs, which are actually part of a German tradition that began in German farm families that were lucky if they had a pig (and thus meat) to make it through a cold winter. Thus, the gift of the pig came about to symbolize a token of good luck. While I did not buy a whole pig, I tried several typical Swedish food items including: glügg, a sweet Christmas drink with a little alcohol, raisins and almonds and a Jul (Christmas)flavoring, a cinnabun, flower-shaped waffles with cloudberry jam, a kebab made of reindeer meat and more typical of the Sami people, residents of the northern most parts of Norway (the Norrlands) who lived off the land, slept in tents like American Indians, and hunted raindeer and fished in fjords to survive. We both tried betting a couple of times in hopes of winning a gigantic, life-sized candybar. Andreas (with his lucky numbers of 14, 15 & 17) had his eye set on the Anthon Berg marzipan assortment, while I (with number eight on the brain) tried my hand at the Polly assortment as well as the wafer-like KEX. Later in the afternoon, it began to snow gently and before long, the winter wonderland of Liseburg was covered with a thin layer of snow. We passed an ice bar, where the entire bar was covered with ice. Andreas’ dad later told us that the company that he works for made the down-lined bodysuits that were a requirement of dress for cold customers. The whole experience was so cute and romantic. At one point there was mistletoe suspended above a bridge over a river illuminated with Christmas lights. We wandered around for awhile before finally heading towards the exit. We took a cable car to the train station, and took a bus instead of a trian this time back to Boras.

The next day was the day before the Swedish Christmas, so of course this means that Andreas and Pierre needed to do some last-minute shopping like most men must do. We stopped by Hemmakväll (meaning home night) a movie and candy store combined into one. I am sure that I looked exactly like a little kid in a candy shop. (While I am not really a little kid, I am sure that I acted like one) I was just overcome with excitement with the number of new brands and chocolate combinations. It amazes me that such a basic product like chocolate can be marketed into so many different ways by changing, adding, or subtracting one simple ingredient. Also, it was neat for me to see what my reaction was when coming in contact with new brand names. After all, most people begin developing brand loyalty subconsciously at such a young age. However, for me, it was like I was being thrust into a brand new world of alternative brands and I was forced to make many difficult decisions. When my comfort brands were not available, I wanted to try everything so that I could begin to develop my own opinions about these brands. I tried Maribo, KEX, Polly, Anthon Berg, Pigall, Reisen, and Scotty. I tried them all. Since I am such a sweet tooth, all of the ingredients were appealing to me. Thus, my decision was decided mainly based on the name and packaging techniques used. This is all so new and exciting to me, and makes me even more glad that I have decided to change my major from Accounting to International Business and Marketing.

The same day, Andreas, Pierre and I made a quick stop at the hospital to get shots for the swine flu. At first I was not even sure where we were going, but I finally figured out why the boys were in such a hurry...we wanted to make it in time before the hospital closed, since it was the day before Christmas. So I followed the furry of black jackets into the anything-but bustling hospital. I expected there to be a long waiting list in the lobby, but there was not one other patient in sight. At first, the boys mustered something short to the nurses on staff before heading down the corridor to a different room. Andreas briefly explained that since I was not a Swedish citizen, that it would not be possible for me to receive the vaccine. I immediately took a seat in the waiting room, not wanting to get my hopes up too high about the chances of possibly receiving the shot. However, within ten minutes or so, Andreas came over to me and mentioned that it would be ok for me to receive the shot after all....he had talked to the nurse and told her that I wouldn’t be going back to the US for awhile, but would be studying in Austria instead. Afterwards, Andreas and I went to ICA to pick up some chocolates for Andreas’ family members for Christmas presents. That night, Andreas and I stayed up super late wrapping presents and making them look all nice. It was so cute watching Andreas wrap his presents. I was thoroughly impressed that any guy could possess such sophisticated wrapping skills. I went out into the hallway to wrap Andreas’ present so that he couldn’t see it. I hadn’t had the chance to look at his present since it had arrived via FedEx, so I had to take a peek before wrapping it. (Andreas mentioned that I was taking forever wrapping it, but I couldn't help it). The next day (the 24th) was Christmas in Sweden and Christmas Eve in America. We awoke around 10 AM and went up for breakfast. I decided to take Morris for a walk on Christmas morning while everyone else prepared themselves. I walked around a small pond and the football field where Andreas played as a young boy, When I got back, I was informed that Andreas was working on my Christmas present in the basement. I attempted to sing along while Amanda played piano, but it was a lost cause. In an hour or so, relatives started to show up. Felix and his girlfriend arrived, along with Corrina and other aunts and uncles, cousins, and grandmas. I attempted to talk with Agneta’s mother, but all that I could muster were basic phrases such as (jag är mycket met and det shno är fin) I asked Pierre what she had said, and he said that she said that I should learn Swedish. It was really interesting to spend a holiday in a non-English speaking culture. Since I am pretty shy anyway when it comes to meeting new people, it’s not like I was missing out on some intense conversations that would have arose if I could speak the language fluently. (Even if I could have spoken Swedish, the conversations probably would have remained quite basic). It was frustrating and yet a relief at the same time. I was spared some potentially awkward and uncomfortable conversations, but the fact that I couldn’t have held a conversation if I had wanted to was frustrating. However, I made the best of the situation. After all, that's just life, folks (folk is how you say people in Swedish.) While I couldn’t converse with everyone, I spent a great deal of time talking to Felix, Sophia, and Corrina. I learned that Sophia was attending law school in hopes of becoming either a prosecutor or a judge, but she had not decided which she would prefer. Dinner consisted of many delicious entres, including Janssons frestelse, a potato casserole with onions, artichokes and sour cream, an omelette casserole of eggs, cream, ham and peas, Swedish meatballs (both regular and Jul) two different kinds of savory sausages, mustard sauce, green cabbage, and Reis A La Malta for dessert. As a tradition, one almond is placed into the rice pudding before it is served. Whoever happens to get the hut in his/her portion is said to either have good luck or will be the next one to get married. Before the meal, Claus Jüron passed out cone-shaped shot glasses for a schnapps shot before the traditional Christmas song was sung at the dinner table. I shot Andreas an I-don’t-have-a-clue look, and he whispered....I should have taught you this...but it was too late. I attempted to mouth the words, but it was pretty hopeless. It was over before I knew it, and I continued to eat while half attempting to translate the language and half zoning out. Andreas’ aunt Corrina was nice enough to converse with me in English for the majority of the meal....I think she understood what I was going through, as she is a marketer herself who has traveled to many different countries on business trips (she works for a pharmaceutical company that I can’t remember the name of). After dinner, the gift exchange began. I received socks, cookies (almost like thin mints) from both Andreas’ mom and grandma, a matching hat and glove set from Corrina and Felix, and a beautiful, hand-painted Swedish horse from his parents (apparently Andreas’ mom drove to a special town just to purchase the horse for me!) I thoroughly enjoyed watching this whole process. The gifts that everyone received were so simple but yet so meaningful and appreciated. For example, Andreas received underwear from his sister, socks and a scale (which he asked for from his parents), who-knows-what from his brother. It was so funny to watch Pierre open the gift from Andreas to him...a little black wallet from Fossil. It was so humorous because it reminded me of just how indecisive Andreas is when it comes to shopping. We probably spent an hour in the store during which Andreas went back between about ten different wallets, all various shades of brown and black with minor differences in the detailing. He finally took my advice and purchased two black ones in different styles (not only did he want a gift for his brother, but he wanted one for himself as well). From observing Pierre’s gift of the 2010 Guiness Book of World Records and the shelf full of books from years’ past on the bookshelf in the basement, I was able to draw the conclusion that there is a tradition associated with this particular gift. Amanda, a true tomboy who doesn’t seem to care what others think (which I really like about her) received plaid in various different patterns. Andreas’ grandmother (on his dad’s side) showed me the little plastic watch that she received as a prize for calling into the local radio station after completing a crossword puzzle. I said "fine" which means nice in hopes that she would understand what I was saying. Lastly, the adults had their own little gift exchange. (I think they had to have a redistribution since just about everyone got their own gift the first time). After everyone left, we just relaxed and hung out and vegged in front of the TV until it was time to skype my family in Cincinnati. The next day (which was officially Christmas for me) was another lazy day. We slept late and basically did nothing until around 3 or 4 PM when I skyped the family again. It was Christmas morning in Cincinnati and everyone was eating around the dining room table at Aunt Cindy and Uncle Jamie’s house, including Grams. Grams was wearing a new sweater that still had the security tag from the store attached to it. Andreas’ family was able to say hi, even Morris. Emily’s cat Lynx said hi to Andreas’ dog Morris. (I am not sure what pets are able to tell about each other through a webcame introduction, but the interaction was interesting to watch!) After watching a few minutes of their gift exchange (in which I was able to predict the brand of Emily’s new yoga pants....can you say Old Navy?) Andreas took me to see his apartment by car. While we drove, it probably wouldn’t have been more than a 10 or 15 minute walk. I was surprised at how modern (and not to mention tidy) his room was. Black and white were the recurring colors, and he had had a couple of pictures of New York on the walls. We spent about an hour or so drinking hot glügg and watching Home Alone before returning to his home where we found Peirre waiting for our arrival in hopes of going out on the town for the night. I quickly changed and downed a mixed drink that Andreas had quickly concocted for me. We went out to a pub called Harry's where I met a couple of Pierre’s friends. We talked a bit, ordered drinks (Andreas bought me a girly drink) and then went downstairs to dance. Pierre, who had done quite a bit of pre-drinking, was probably having the most fun of all. He was swinging around and around on the pole while Andreas and I and Pierre’s friend laughed in amusement. At one point in the night, Pierre picked me up in one felse swoop, and Andreas rushed to support him. At another point, they were tossing me up in the air. Amanda did not go out with us because the bar was for people over 20, but the people at the door were not even checking IDs, so she definitely could have made it in. Also, I am pretty sure that there were plenty of others under the age of 20 buzzing around the bar. The dance floor was so crowded that I could barely move, and thus got pushed back and forth between sweaty bodies to the pulse of the music. The night ended too soon, around 2 AM (when the bars close). I had gotten used to the clubs in Vienna staying open to around 6 AM. Poor Pierre misplaced the number for his coat check and had to wait until everyone had left only to find that someone had found his number, cashed it in, and stolen in jacket. Andreas and I left earlier (Daddy Hult came to the rescue) despite my pleas to stay and wait with him. Apparently Andreas had called his dad because he didn’t want me to walk back in the snow in my heals. Pierre on the other hand had to run to the police station (luckily accompanied by his friend) and then run home without a jacket!

Agneta informed us of all of this the next morning. After lunch, we went out to do some shopping (Pierre, after all, had to look for a new jacket). Amanda and I dropped off Andreas at Game Stop (big surprise there! =)) before heading off to do a little shopping of our own. I fell in love with a neat little shop called MQ and got really close to buying a black and white plaid pleated skirt but decided against it at the last minute. That evening, we sat around watching TV (mostly cooking network shows) and relaxing. That evening, Andreas took me out to dinner to Thai Silk for my Christmas present. It was a nice, romantic evening of good food, good wine, and good conversation. Andreas suggested that we order American red wine since the buffet was a BBQ buffet. Our waiter was a cute little Thai man who perkily took our order. Andreas said that he is funny to watch in the summer when the restaurant is packed with customers. We discussed the topic of Thailandish people who moved to Sweden to work. (I guess this goes to show why there are an excess of Thai restaurants around town, and across the country). Going out to eat like this made me feel like being home for an instant. I felt like if I had been home in Wichita, this was the kind of restaurant that I would have been going to. Which makes me want to show Andreas Wichita even more now.

I convinced myself that I would enjoy myself on my last day in Sweden and not dwell on the fact that I did not know when (if ever) I would be back. We slept somewhat late (10 ish) and took showers before getting dressed for the day. Andreas drove me to the little lake where his mom sometimes runs, and I was completely blown away by the beauty of the place. He kept commenting on how much better everything looked in the summer, when the grass would be green and the water warm. However, I thought that the snow was absolutely gorgeous. Afterwards, we went for a walk along the river downtown and passed one of his favorite restaurants on the banks of the river. before heading to the infamous sushi bar where we got all you can eat sushi for the small price of 10 euro. I got to meet two of Andreas’ best friends along with Felix at the swimming center in Boras for a little afternoon swim. The boys, of course, had to race down the slide and compare times. I actually improved slightly with each progressive slide except for the last one. After attempting to climb the rock wall and after completing a few dives, we went into the sauna (and, luckily, did not have to strip down naked like you have to do in most Scandinavian saunas). The cool water bath was quite the experience afterwards. The boys insisted that it would feel good, but I had a hard time believing them for some reason....However, I should have taken their word for it because it was amazingly refreshing (but probably not as refreshing as a dive into the ice cold lake that Andreas and I visited earlier that day!) I thought that being a girl, I would be the last done in the locker room, but in fact I was the first (I even beat Andreas!). Just goes to show how particular the Scandinavian guys actually are. Last but not least was Felix, who Andreas warned me was always late. Since we were so cold from swimming, we decided to warm up by going to a cafe to get some hot cocoa and cake. Andreas took me to a quaint little cafe where he ordered a blueberry piece of pie for himself, a slice of apple for me, and cocoa for the both of us. The boys ordered spaghetti and tacos, something slightly more substantial. Apparently tacos are quite popular in Sweden, who would have guessed? Because of this, they were given a small wooden number (painted like the Swedish flag) with their orders. I had a nice conversation with the boys before Amanda and Agneta surprisingly showed up. I asked Agneta to sit down, but she said that she had arrands to run. That is something that will never cease to amaze me....the true sense of community that exists between his family members and friends. They live really close together but still maintain contact almost constantly, and I think I like it. I guess that since they were in the neighborhood, they decided to stop by. On our way back to the car, we stopped in a candy shop where I bought nearly 2 Kilos of candy (to justify this, let me explain that I was buying gifts for people, I did not plan to eat all 2 Kilos). It was funny because I saw a cute little burlap bag in the window of a different store that said God Jul (Merry Christmas in Swedish) and thought to myself....I could just buy the bag and get candy elsewhere. Within the next minute or so, Andreas pointed out the exact same bags with the exact same suggestion. It is strange to think that we think so much alike sometimes; in fact it is a little scary. So that is exactly what I did....I bought a couple little bags (one for my mom and one for Aashild) and bought candy at Hemmakväll instead. When we got back to Andreas’ place, a smorgastorte was waiting for us, in all its glitz and glory. A smorgastorte is a huge sandwich cake where the layers are pate, egg, mayo, tuna, shrimp, cucumber, and various other ingredients. After eating, we sat around until Andreas’ mom informed me that she was going to work out. Being starved for a good workout, I decided to take her up on the offer. I went down to change clothes and then went for a nice little walk/jog with Agneta and Morris. Agneta told me that she had a friend who worked at the hospital with her whose husband was American. We stopped by their house to say hi....and boy could you pick out the house! Unlike the more conservatively decorated traditional Swedish houses with minimal Christmas lights, this one was decked out from top to bottom with colored lights. Unfortunately her friend was not home, so we were forced to just pass by. Since the roads were pretty icy, we would alternate walking and jogging. I told Agneta that I wished I could speak more Swedish, and she expressed her desire to learn more English. She said that she was thinking of going to a class to learn more, in fact. We discussed the mental health care systems in Sweden and the US, and she told me about the difficulties of her job. I admire her for her abilities to deal with the mentally ill, and applaud everyone who works in the health care industry...they are so needed, but not appreciated nearly enough. When we returned, Andreas was still sound asleep in the same position that I left him in. I changed clothes and woke him up so that we could play some monopoly. While Amanda and I wanted to gang up Andreas, I should have known that it would be a lost cause. After all, we were up against the gambling extraordinaire. When he had hotels on half of his properties, Amanda had mortgaged half of her properties, and I was out of cash, we knew that we should probably just call it quits. During the game, I also sampled the 007 glügg (after I reminded Andreas) which wasn’t exactly what I had expected. I can see why it was one of Andreas’ favorites, but I think it was more his style than mine, personally. We were so tired from swimming that night that we barely got through one episode of How I Met Your Mother before I was out cold.

The next morning came all too soon, and it was time to say goodbye to the beautiful land of Sweden, a winter wonderland of yellow houses, yellow peppers (paprika), wooden spoons and wooden horses, heart-shaped wreathes and cookies, upside-down cone shaped glasses, and people with hearts of gold. I had said goodbye to Pierre and Amanda the night before so that I would not have to wake them up in the morning. When I came upstairs, Agneta was up and Andreas had already made several sandwiches for me to take on the road. I said goodbye to Agneta, and said that she wished that I could stay there with Andreas. I can’t say that I disagree, I absolutely loved it there. Who knows, WSU does have a direct partnership with a business school in Jöngköping... Pappa Hult had the car on and all warmed up for us so that Andreas could drive me to catch my bus in Gothenburg. The drive was bittersweet. I think that Andreas was a little stressed, as he was not familiar with the parking areas near the train station and he clearly did not want me to miss my bus. However, when we arrived, we had plenty of time. I don’t think he knew what to say, honestly. I really didn't know what to say either. He told me that I looked cute in the hat that his godmother had given me for Christmas. He walked me to the bus, and even loaded my bag on board. I told him to be good, to do his homework, and to get some sleep. It didn’t feel like I was leaving because I wasn’t leaving Scandinavia, so I did not cry. I could not bring myself to say goodbye for real...I told him that I would see him again.

So long Sweden, see you again someday!